and (possibly) sewing channel cut
Now the sole is trimmed back roughly and a channel may be cut on the underside of the sole – all the way around the foot – to take the welt stitching.
Sole stitched to welt from below – and scouring
And the legendary welt goes on … no doubt to a round of applause! It is stitched from below and the stitches may be recessed in a channel. At this stage the welt may also be embossed with a pattern. The sole is rolled under high pressure to cause it to conform to the shape of the last, the heel is nailed in place from the inside of the shoe, the edges of sole and heel are trimmed accurately and then scoured. This scouring uses ever-finer emery paper and prepares for waxing and polishing the edges of sole and heel.